Spawning and Loot
Here's an interactive map that will be updated with the game.[pubgmap.io]
Generally, it's better to start near the center of the map, which is why most of the good spawns are nearby there. This being, because you get time to search the full location as the map starts closing in, making it risky. However, more people will be there with you and decreases your chances of surviving. Most people don't wait till the end of the flight to dive, increasing your chances in those areas. Another good tip for diving is to go heavily left or right of the plane's path because most people won't. This gives you the advantage of safely getting loot. Always set a marker where you're going to drop.
When you want to dive somewhere, dive as close as possible and go straight down; this way, you will get there faster than anyone else.
Generally, it's better to start near the center of the map, which is why most of the good spawns are nearby there. This being, because you get time to search the full location as the map starts closing in, making it risky. However, more people will be there with you and decreases your chances of surviving. Most people don't wait till the end of the flight to dive, increasing your chances in those areas. Another good tip for diving is to go heavily left or right of the plane's path because most people won't. This gives you the advantage of safely getting loot. Always set a marker where you're going to drop.
When you want to dive somewhere, dive as close as possible and go straight down; this way, you will get there faster than anyone else.
Looting and Roaming
Looting
While looting buildings, some people recommend using first person by pressing "v", but personally I use third person because I can use the camera to peak over the corners of rooms to see if there is any good loot before I go in. Always keep an ear out while looting and when the zone is available, check it and make sure you're inside before you spend too much time.
Remember to have out either a shotgun or a full auto weapon when in small areas so you can still fight if you get pounced upon.
Carepackages are the riskiest things to go to. You should always take highground near a carepackage, whether it be a hill or a building, take the high ground and watch the carepackage for a while, and do not go towards it until you are sure there is no one nearby that could be ready to spoop you from the bushes like C'Thulhu, the God of Old. Just quickly grab as many items as possible and run. The exception is the first carepackage, which, if you manage to get a car and hunt it down within the first 3-4 minutes of the game, is normally uncontested. Take the gun and run- don't even bother reloading it there.
Roaming
While roaming the map, whether it be with a car or with a good old fashioned foot and gun, always use LAlt(defaultly) to freelook around you and spot any pesky enemies trying to give you a good spooping. While outside, I switch my weapons to semi so I can control it at a distance. If you have a sniper, try to refrain from having that out while outside and only switch to it when you see someone far away. This is to make sure that you can still hold your own at close range incase anyone decided to spoop you from the cover of a tree or rock.
Generally try to hide behind cover while roaming, and have your eye out for path changes for you to get cover. If you can only pick one, always get cover from low ground and try to take high ground for the tactical advantage. Remember, slower but safer is better than faster but dangerous.
If you are low on time, you can press "x"(defaultly) to run faster at the risk of having no weapon at the time. Also, in terms of cars, the Dacia is the second fastest with decent cover, making it just as viable as the UAZ that's slower at the benefit of cover. The motorbike and the buggy should always be traded out for the Dacia and UAZ if the option is provided. The motorbike, however, is the fastest. If you take a car to get into the Playzone, going towards the center might be a better option, because you will normally be closer to the circle than in any other position. Try to park away from your destination so that way people there cannot hear you pull up.
While looting buildings, some people recommend using first person by pressing "v", but personally I use third person because I can use the camera to peak over the corners of rooms to see if there is any good loot before I go in. Always keep an ear out while looting and when the zone is available, check it and make sure you're inside before you spend too much time.
Remember to have out either a shotgun or a full auto weapon when in small areas so you can still fight if you get pounced upon.
Carepackages are the riskiest things to go to. You should always take highground near a carepackage, whether it be a hill or a building, take the high ground and watch the carepackage for a while, and do not go towards it until you are sure there is no one nearby that could be ready to spoop you from the bushes like C'Thulhu, the God of Old. Just quickly grab as many items as possible and run. The exception is the first carepackage, which, if you manage to get a car and hunt it down within the first 3-4 minutes of the game, is normally uncontested. Take the gun and run- don't even bother reloading it there.
Roaming
While roaming the map, whether it be with a car or with a good old fashioned foot and gun, always use LAlt(defaultly) to freelook around you and spot any pesky enemies trying to give you a good spooping. While outside, I switch my weapons to semi so I can control it at a distance. If you have a sniper, try to refrain from having that out while outside and only switch to it when you see someone far away. This is to make sure that you can still hold your own at close range incase anyone decided to spoop you from the cover of a tree or rock.
Generally try to hide behind cover while roaming, and have your eye out for path changes for you to get cover. If you can only pick one, always get cover from low ground and try to take high ground for the tactical advantage. Remember, slower but safer is better than faster but dangerous.
If you are low on time, you can press "x"(defaultly) to run faster at the risk of having no weapon at the time. Also, in terms of cars, the Dacia is the second fastest with decent cover, making it just as viable as the UAZ that's slower at the benefit of cover. The motorbike and the buggy should always be traded out for the Dacia and UAZ if the option is provided. The motorbike, however, is the fastest. If you take a car to get into the Playzone, going towards the center might be a better option, because you will normally be closer to the circle than in any other position. Try to park away from your destination so that way people there cannot hear you pull up.
Weapon and Attachment Selection
Shotguns are great, except I normally only use them at the start. The S686 is the best shotgun, as, although they fire much less rounds, they can double tap almost any enemy when used correctly. Dropping a shotgun for a AR or UMP9/Vector when you start to go into mid-game is a smart choice.
For ARs I always try to use the SCAR-L and the M416, because recoil control with them is a fairly easy task. They are both adaptable weapons, however the SCAR-L should normally only be used in full auto, as it's spread is tight and the recoil is low enough to be able to get kills.
Notable Weapons:
The Kar98k is a great weapon if you know how to use it and is great for picking off people who stop moving and even sniping moving people if you have the skill. A tip is to hold shift on your first fire so you can see the bullet's drop and drag and adjust your next shot accordingly.
The Vector is a great weapon for flanking in small spaces, but getting ammunition for it can prove challenginig. A good gun, but probably not notable.
The Tommygun is a good gun if you have nothing else. The iron sights are awful.
The Mini 14 is a powerful DMR that uses 5.56 and as of right now, has low recoil. Preferable for most players.
The M24 is a great rifle found only in crates, it 2 shot kills unless the enemy is wearing a level 3 vest. Good power, fast bullet speed, less drop. Better than the kar98k, and to some's opinion, better than the AWM.
The AWM, however is a rifle designed for longer ranges with the fastest bullet speed in the game, and can one-shot a person without a vest, or anyone if it nails a headshot. Easily a monster in-game. This is met with a 20 round magazine as the AWM has a unique ammo that can be found only in the crate you get it in.
The M249 is an LMG, designed for spraying down enemies if you can get control of the recoil. Great for cars, and just firing at normal people this weapon is the pinacle of firing more bullets to compensate for bad aim.
The Groza, the monster of close range encounters. It eats straight through people, duos, and squads with eaze. Minimal recoil, high damage, high fire rate. Spray and kill.
The AUG, or, the M16A4 but Full Auto. The AUG is godly, with high firerate, minimal spread, minimal recoil, and high bullet speed.
The best set up for late game is an AR of some kind, preferably the M416, or SCAR-L, and a sniper or DMR with attachments that work great with them.
Attachments
The silencer is best for most weapons, most notably, bolt action sniper rifles, such as the Karabiner 98 kurz, the Arctic Warfare Magnum and the M24 Sniper Weapon System. On most ARs, it would be beneficial to take the surpressor, as the recoil is not too bad to require a compensator, of course, the exception to this, is the AKM, which should always have a compensator or flash hider on it for reduced recoil.
Just for clarity on the subject, the Flash Hider has significantly reduced recoil reduction as compared to the Compensator, which should normally be preffered over the Flash Hider which only reduces your flash, whereas the Surpressor completely hides it.
Extended is better than quickdraw, because why reload faster when you can fire more before you reload? And of course, Ext. Quickdraw is better than either because it's a two-in-one deal!
You already know what scopes to use, and remember to take into account the weapon your using your scope of choice on.
Bullet loops should always be taken over a cheek pad for the weapons that can take them, and don't bother picking up cheek pads and compensators for bolt action weapons.
The vertical foregrip is statistically better, with faster ADS, higher spread reduction, and higher recoil reduction than the angled foregrip, HOWEVER, on the M416 does NOT get an ADS benefit from the vertical forergrip.
Do note, that you don't have to solidly stick to my weapon selection. Pick what you will, these are just what I've found helpful. Some players will do better with some weapons than others, so, again, pick what you will.
The frying pan is essential, as it blocks bullets AND has the highest melee damage of any weapon.
For ARs I always try to use the SCAR-L and the M416, because recoil control with them is a fairly easy task. They are both adaptable weapons, however the SCAR-L should normally only be used in full auto, as it's spread is tight and the recoil is low enough to be able to get kills.
Notable Weapons:
The Kar98k is a great weapon if you know how to use it and is great for picking off people who stop moving and even sniping moving people if you have the skill. A tip is to hold shift on your first fire so you can see the bullet's drop and drag and adjust your next shot accordingly.
The Vector is a great weapon for flanking in small spaces, but getting ammunition for it can prove challenginig. A good gun, but probably not notable.
The Tommygun is a good gun if you have nothing else. The iron sights are awful.
The Mini 14 is a powerful DMR that uses 5.56 and as of right now, has low recoil. Preferable for most players.
The M24 is a great rifle found only in crates, it 2 shot kills unless the enemy is wearing a level 3 vest. Good power, fast bullet speed, less drop. Better than the kar98k, and to some's opinion, better than the AWM.
The AWM, however is a rifle designed for longer ranges with the fastest bullet speed in the game, and can one-shot a person without a vest, or anyone if it nails a headshot. Easily a monster in-game. This is met with a 20 round magazine as the AWM has a unique ammo that can be found only in the crate you get it in.
The M249 is an LMG, designed for spraying down enemies if you can get control of the recoil. Great for cars, and just firing at normal people this weapon is the pinacle of firing more bullets to compensate for bad aim.
The Groza, the monster of close range encounters. It eats straight through people, duos, and squads with eaze. Minimal recoil, high damage, high fire rate. Spray and kill.
The AUG, or, the M16A4 but Full Auto. The AUG is godly, with high firerate, minimal spread, minimal recoil, and high bullet speed.
The best set up for late game is an AR of some kind, preferably the M416, or SCAR-L, and a sniper or DMR with attachments that work great with them.
Attachments
The silencer is best for most weapons, most notably, bolt action sniper rifles, such as the Karabiner 98 kurz, the Arctic Warfare Magnum and the M24 Sniper Weapon System. On most ARs, it would be beneficial to take the surpressor, as the recoil is not too bad to require a compensator, of course, the exception to this, is the AKM, which should always have a compensator or flash hider on it for reduced recoil.
Just for clarity on the subject, the Flash Hider has significantly reduced recoil reduction as compared to the Compensator, which should normally be preffered over the Flash Hider which only reduces your flash, whereas the Surpressor completely hides it.
Extended is better than quickdraw, because why reload faster when you can fire more before you reload? And of course, Ext. Quickdraw is better than either because it's a two-in-one deal!
You already know what scopes to use, and remember to take into account the weapon your using your scope of choice on.
Bullet loops should always be taken over a cheek pad for the weapons that can take them, and don't bother picking up cheek pads and compensators for bolt action weapons.
The vertical foregrip is statistically better, with faster ADS, higher spread reduction, and higher recoil reduction than the angled foregrip, HOWEVER, on the M416 does NOT get an ADS benefit from the vertical forergrip.
Do note, that you don't have to solidly stick to my weapon selection. Pick what you will, these are just what I've found helpful. Some players will do better with some weapons than others, so, again, pick what you will.
The frying pan is essential, as it blocks bullets AND has the highest melee damage of any weapon.
Movement & Positioning on Erangel
Erangel provides a lot of cover, and is normally prefered more. Because of Erangel's increase in cover, it makes it much easier to flank enemies, and so you should expect more enemies to flank you, and therefor should flank your enemies more as well.
In terms of positiioning, it is normally smart to strongly avoid highly populated areas and keep track of the plane's flight path. In a normal game, you should keep track of all the extremely high drop places near the plane and build a general path as to where they would be in the zone, and try to avoid those places. You should also try to avoid what would normally be lesser populated areas, as many combatants have this idea and render it mute by also joining in. When the white zone moves, it is best to wait until the timer for the zone reaches zero, or until you think you can just barely outrun the zone.
ALWAYS keep your eye on the timer, especially in combat, and pay attention as to how long it will take you to get there.
In terms of positiioning, it is normally smart to strongly avoid highly populated areas and keep track of the plane's flight path. In a normal game, you should keep track of all the extremely high drop places near the plane and build a general path as to where they would be in the zone, and try to avoid those places. You should also try to avoid what would normally be lesser populated areas, as many combatants have this idea and render it mute by also joining in. When the white zone moves, it is best to wait until the timer for the zone reaches zero, or until you think you can just barely outrun the zone.
ALWAYS keep your eye on the timer, especially in combat, and pay attention as to how long it will take you to get there.
Movement & Positioning on Miramar
Miramar has little cover, and so most players stick to being inside buildings of any kind, normally towers so they get the high ground. This means that it is smart to try to stay away from towns after the first section of the game- if you manage to survive. A lot of my tips on Erangel apply here, except you want to stay somewhat away from enemies.
Basic Combat Tips
All bullets have bullet travel time, and motorcycles are actually extremely fast compared to your bullets, getting close being able to outrun them. Use this as a measure of how far to aim ahead of your enemies. Zeroing distance is the distance at which your bullet should line up perfectly with your sight, and the only sights that can change it are the 8x and 15x. The 8x also normally renders the 4x mute, and same for the 15x, as they can both zoom out now. The biggest tip I can probably give you for combat, is lean. And if you're too far from cover, fight out of it if you can locate your enemy. Any time you ADS, lean. It's a lot harder to move a wiggling dome-piece than it is to hit a stationary one.
Duos and Squads
Duos
ALWAYS loot buildings together. Never solo loot a building, and never go to a town alone. If your teammate jumped off solo like an idiot, you gotta follow. It's called duo for a reason. Keep callouts fresh, and always make sure you are using the compass on the top of your screen so your friends know where to look for the enemy. Try to make sure you never split up unless you are looting a large building with two entrances. The compass exists for a reason, btw. If you want a callout guide, you can search for some.
Squads
If you have any team mates, never split up. Remember trigger discipline, however. Also remember that you've got four people. Try to make firefights last, so you can attack from all directions. Surround your enemy, and never stay in a town or on the side of a hill; then you risk taking fire from all directions. Also remember, that you earn less coins in squad than you do in duos, and less in duos than you do in solos.
When attacking buildings like this that you know people are in;
surround them. Make sure they can't escape.
ALWAYS loot buildings together. Never solo loot a building, and never go to a town alone. If your teammate jumped off solo like an idiot, you gotta follow. It's called duo for a reason. Keep callouts fresh, and always make sure you are using the compass on the top of your screen so your friends know where to look for the enemy. Try to make sure you never split up unless you are looting a large building with two entrances. The compass exists for a reason, btw. If you want a callout guide, you can search for some.
Squads
If you have any team mates, never split up. Remember trigger discipline, however. Also remember that you've got four people. Try to make firefights last, so you can attack from all directions. Surround your enemy, and never stay in a town or on the side of a hill; then you risk taking fire from all directions. Also remember, that you earn less coins in squad than you do in duos, and less in duos than you do in solos.
When attacking buildings like this that you know people are in;
surround them. Make sure they can't escape.
Tracking Hostiles
Before you go into a town, always look for open doors. This means that hostiles have either been there, or are still there. Some closed doors and some open doors usually means that there definitely is a hostile there or previously there. Always treat towns with a high amount of suspicion. There could be people hiding anywhere in it, and I always take cover from the side of a door whenever I open one, as to bait out any shots from someone who might open it. In buildings that I think someone may be, I check windows first and never sprint or normally stand. When you know someone has to be in a room, or near a room, toss a grenade in. It'll be the safest way of dealing with a threat.
When out in the open, or have the possibility of losing your target, move closer or farther. Evaluate the situation, the enemy's aim and their probability of eliminating you. If you don't think you can win, move in a linear path backwards, making sure that the tree that you're no longer hugging is still covering you before you can get to more cover farther back, and continue this until you can run away safely. Do this even if you believe you can win, but the firefight lasts too long. You have a gun, it makes loud noises that other people can hear from long distances, and that attracts people. The more people in the fight, the less chance you have.
Doors will always open away from you; meaning that a door facing outwards means that someone left that building, and a door facing inwards means that someone entered the building there. Use this to determine what house a hostile is in. Also, baiting cars out in the open with a long ranged weapon does nicely.
When out in the open, or have the possibility of losing your target, move closer or farther. Evaluate the situation, the enemy's aim and their probability of eliminating you. If you don't think you can win, move in a linear path backwards, making sure that the tree that you're no longer hugging is still covering you before you can get to more cover farther back, and continue this until you can run away safely. Do this even if you believe you can win, but the firefight lasts too long. You have a gun, it makes loud noises that other people can hear from long distances, and that attracts people. The more people in the fight, the less chance you have.
Doors will always open away from you; meaning that a door facing outwards means that someone left that building, and a door facing inwards means that someone entered the building there. Use this to determine what house a hostile is in. Also, baiting cars out in the open with a long ranged weapon does nicely.
Thank You For Reading
This isn't entirely done, as I'll be adding to the guide the more I play to make it better and more accurate. If you've got any suggestions, stuff them into the comments section and I'll read them.
Be sure to rate and favorite!
Last Updated: October 4th, 2017
Be sure to rate and favorite!
Last Updated: October 4th, 2017
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